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| Alternating Single and Double Tunisian Rows |
Tunisian crochet (also referred to as afghan crochet) uses a hook that closely resembles a knitting needle, but it has a hook on the end. It is worked without turning, and each row requires two passes.
In the forward pass, you draw up loops as you would in normal crochet, but you do not draw through the final two loops (to link to the last loop you made). This results in you collecting loops on your hook. After you end the forward pass, you draw up one extra loop through the last one you made.
In the backward pass, you’re closing up the loops you collected on your hook, finishing off the row and ending up with only one loop on your hook, ready to start the next row. You will have added an extra loop to the last one you made in the forward pass. Now you yarn over and draw backwards through your row, 2 loops at a time.
The basic stitch is simple Tunisian, and the simple comes into play with where you draw your loop through on the previous row. Simple has you draw through the front yarn of the vertical loop of the last row. Simple single Tunisian tends to curl, which is why I began to experiment with patterns.
Similar to regular crochet, variations can be made by inserting the hook in other parts of the stitch, either from the front or back, but I don’t recommend going after that until you’ve had some practice with the basics. Potholders or scarves are great practice, and they’ll turn out great with the tight stitches of Tunisian crochet.
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| Tunisian crochet hook (top) and normal crochet hook (bottom). |
Scaling: Not important, chain to desired width.
Ideas: Scarves, potholders, and blankets (if you have the right equipment).
Pattern:
Chain crochet to the desired width of your project. I chained 23 for this example, but the number doesn’t matter as the pattern is vertical via the rows.
Cast on Row (forward pass): Cast on by inserting the hook into the second chain from the end and drawing up one loop. Do not work the loop, leaving it on your hook. Continue to draw up loops and collect them on the hook until you’ve worked into each of the chains. On the last chain, draw up the loop and then draw a second loop through that to prepare for the reverse pass (no matter the type of Tunisian crochet stitch, you’ll always draw up this extra loop at the end of the first pass). Figures 1-3.
Cast on Row (reverse pass): Draw through two loops on hook, yarn over, and draw through two more loops. Continue until you’ve worked backwards to the beginning of the row and have only one loop on the hook. Figures 4-5.
Row 1 (forward pass): Ch 3 (this counts as the first stitch). Yarn over, slip your hook through the center of the vertical loop of the second stitch, and draw up a loop. Draw through two loops, leaving the remaining loop on the hook (like working an incomplete dc). Work the double Tunisian crochet across to the last stitch of the row. Draw up an extra loop on the last stitch before working the reverse pass. Figures 6-8.
Row 1 (reverse pass): Draw through two loops on hook, yarn over, and draw through two more loops. Continue until you’ve worked backwards to the beginning of the row and have only one loop on the hook. Figures 9-10.
Row 2 (forward pass): Ch 1 (this counts as the first stitch). Slip your hook through the center of the vertical loop of the second stitch and draw up a loop, leaving it to collect on your hook. Work the single Tunisian crochet across to the last stitch of the row. Draw up an extra loop on the last stitch before working the reverse pass. Figures 11-12
Row 2 (reverse pass): Work the same as Row 1 (reverse pass). Figure 13.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until your work is the desired length. Together, Rows 1 and 2 form the Pattern Row for this project.
Finishing: The stitch will yield different textures on the ends of the rows. If you’re right handed, the row on the right (where you start your rows) will have a chain crochet look, while the row on the left (where you start your reverse pass) will have a rough look. At a minimum, I’d single crochet around and down the left hand side of the project so a casual observer won’t see a difference. I chose not to continue the single crochets around to the other side as it turned out rather bulky when I tried it out.
~~~End of Pattern~~~
Illustrative Figures:
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| Figure 1: Casting on row (forward pass), placing the hook into one of the ch bumps to draw through a loop. |
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| Figure 2: Casting on row (forward pass), 4 stitches cast on. Note the loops collect on the hook. |
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| Figure 3: End of Cast on Row (forward pass), extra loop drawn up on last stitch. |
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| Figure 4: Cast on Row (reverse pass), draw through 2 loops at a time, working backwards towards beginning of row. |
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| Figure 5: Cast on Row complete (both passes). |
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| Figure 6: Row 1 (forward pass),chain 3, yarn over, push through front post of loop. |
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| Figure 7: Row 1 (forward pass), starting chain dc, plus three cast on Tunisian dc. |
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| Figure 8: Row 1 (end of forward pass), extra loop drawn up on final Tunisian dc. |
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| Figure 9: Row 1 (reverse pass), draw through two loops at a time back towards beginning of row. |
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| Figure 10: Row 1 complete (both passes). |
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| Figure 11: Row 2 (forward pass), insert hook of front post of top loop and draw up a loop. |
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| Figure 12: Row 2 (end of forward pass), extra loop drawn up on last stitch. |
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| Figure 13: Row 2 complete (both passes). |
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Project Idea:
Tunisian crochet lends itself towards rectangular projects, so I worked up this nifty Dr. Whovian looking scarf with the alternating colors. Of course, the downside was hiding all the loose ends, but it was worth it.
Without repeating all the details of the pattern, here is what I did.
Beginning (6 pattern rows):
Chain to the desired width and cast on in single Tunisian.
Rows 1-12: In your main color (MC), work the Pattern Row (rows 1 and 2 in the pattern instructions above) 6 times. Work a color change at the end of Row 12’s reverse pass as follows:
Changing Colors:
Row 12 (end of reverse pass-color change): At the end of the reverse pass on a single Tunisian row, leave two loops on your hook. Instead of drawing through the MC, switch to the second color (SC) and draw through a loop (be sure to leave a lengthy tail on this and the MC). Hold your fingers to the delicate joining you’ve done until you’ve gone a few stitches deep into the next forward pass.
TIP: Unlike in normal crochet, you will not want to carry those loose strands along under the new row. Weave them in at the end.
Working the Alternating Color Rows (3 pattern rows):
Rows 13 18: in your second color (SC) work the Pattern Row (rows 1 and 2 in the pattern instructions above) 3 times. Work a color change back to MC as indicated in the Row 12 (end of reverse pass-color change) instructions above.
Continue working the patterns as in Rows 13-18, three Pattern Rows each color segment, until you’re just shy of the length you want.
Ending:
In MC, work the final rows of the scarf as in Rows 1-12, 6 Pattern Rows. Finish off and weave in all those lovely ends.
~~~End of Project Description~~~
Well that's it. I've tried a few interesting things with the Tunisian stitch, but I'm still rather new at it.
If you'd like a really good write up on how to start off, I'd check out Red Heart's Ultimate Beginners Guide to Tunisian Crochet.
I'd love to hear what you think. Post in the comments!
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